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Etiquette

Shrines, quietly

Srinagar’s shrines are in use. Hazratbal holds a relic and a long waterfront. Khanqah-e-Moula is a wooden khanqah in the old city. You can visit both as a guest. You cannot visit them as a set.

The carved wooden facade of Khanqah-e-Moula in Srinagar

Cover your head if asked, take shoes off where the shoes are already off, and do not walk in front of people who are praying in order to centre a photograph. Women travellers are welcome in the visiting areas; follow the local women’s lead on the inner rooms rather than a stranger’s insistence.

Hazratbal’s white dome is the easy visit: a wide courtyard and the lake. The old-city khanqah is the one that asks you to be in a dense neighbourhood. Do them on different days if you can.

When

Outside congregational prayer. Evenings before dusk are often calm at Hazratbal. Avoid turning a festival day into a casual drop-in; the crowd is there for a reason that is not you.

Where

Hazratbal on the north shore of Dal. Khanqah-e-Moula in the old city. There are many smaller shrines. One or two, visited properly, is the right number.

Doing it well

  • Read the etiquette page before you go. Etiquette.
  • Give a donation only if you want to, into an obvious box, not to a person who attaches themselves in the lane.

Skip these versions

  • A drone, a selfie stick, or a loud explanation in the courtyard.
  • Assuming every green-domed building is a ticketed monument.

Questions people actually ask

Do I have to be Muslim to enter?

Visitors who are not Muslim do go to the outer areas of these shrines. Dress modestly, follow directions, and leave if a caretaker says a room is not for visitors. That is the whole rule.

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