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The valley
Places
Towns, meadows and one short valley. Each guide says why to go, how long the drive takes, and where to sleep by area rather than by a hotel name we would only be guessing.


City
Srinagar
Srinagar is the practical base for almost every Kashmir trip, and it is also the part most people rush. The lake, the old city and the gardens are three different speeds. Two ni…

Meadow
Gulmarg
Gulmarg is a meadow with a gondola, not a town you wander for its lanes. In summer it is grass, ponies and a view. In winter it is snow, a queue, and skiing that is real if you…

Lidder valley
Pahalgam
Pahalgam is a valley town on the Lidder, and the reason to stay is the morning before the day-trippers arrive. Aru, Betaab and Chandanwari are short add-ons. They are not three…

High meadow
Sonamarg
Sonamarg is a high meadow on the road toward Zoji La. It is excellent in the short summer and a closed road for much of the year. Plan it as its own day or night, not as a winte…

Day meadow
Doodhpathri
Doodhpathri is meadows, a stream and pine, southwest of Srinagar. It does not have a gondola or a market to kill three hours. That is why it works as a day out when Gulmarg feel…

Permit valley
Gurez
Gurez sits north of Bandipora, over the Razdan Pass, along the Kishenganga. It is one of the few places on a Kashmir trip that still feels like you left the tourist circuit. It…

Quiet meadow
Yusmarg
Yusmarg is a meadow west of the valley, past Charar-i-Sharif. On a weekday it is one of the calmer high places you can reach from Srinagar without a multi-day permit.

Above Pahalgam
Aru
Aru is a village up the Lidder from Pahalgam, and the start of walks that are no longer a taxi loop. In summer it is green pasture. In winter it is snow, pherans and kangris, an…

Short stop
Betaab Valley
Betaab is a small, managed valley a short drive from Pahalgam, named after a film that used it. There is an entrance, a path, a stream and a view. It takes about an hour if you…

Spring and garden
Kokernag
Kokernag is known for a cold spring and a botanical garden in the south of the valley, past Anantnag. It is a calm day from Srinagar, or a pause if you are already travelling th…