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December in Kashmir

December is the start of winter proper. By the last ten days, Gulmarg often looks like the photographs. The first ten days might not. Srinagar is cold, festive in a local way around the end of the month, and short on daylight.

Ski tracks on a wide snow slope at Gulmarg with pines along the ridge

New Year week is the crowded version of Gulmarg. If you want snow more than a party, the middle of the month is calmer and slightly less sure. Either way, ask about heating and about whether the meadow road has been open that week.

Usually open

  • Srinagar
  • Gulmarg, with increasing confidence late in the month
  • Winterised hotels

Usually shut or a bad bet

  • Sonamarg
  • Gurez
  • Garden colour
  • High treks

Weather

Cold. Snow likely at Gulmarg as the month goes on, unpredictable in the first week. City snow is a bonus, not a plan.

What to wear

Full winter kit if Gulmarg is included. City shoes that handle frost. Gloves in the luggage, not bought in a panic from the only stall open.

Where to base yourself

The winter itinerary. Keep Pahalgam off the headline.

Questions people actually ask

Can we promise the children snow?

You can promise a cold, serious mountain town and a good chance of snow at Gulmarg after mid-month. You cannot promise a particular depth on a particular morning. Phrase it that way before you travel, not after.

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