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autumn

September in Kashmir

September is a favourite for a reason: the summer roads are still there, the haze drops, apples come on, and the weekend crush eases after school holidays. Saffron is only just thinking about it.

Saffron beds in flower on the plateau at Pampore

Put an orchard hour on the Pahalgam or Kokernag day. Read apple season. If you want saffron flowers, be ready to slip into October instead of insisting the bloom is “usually early”.

Usually open

  • The classic circuit
  • Gurez, with an eye on the pass
  • Apple orchards
  • Sonamarg, until the first serious autumn closure

Usually shut or a bad bet

  • Peak saffron, usually later
  • Skiing

Weather

Warm days, cooler nights, a first hint of the winter wardrobe at Gulmarg. Rain possible, snow unlikely on the valley floor.

What to wear

Layers. A jacket for the evening. The noon sun still burns.

Where to base yourself

Any of the main plans. This is the month they all work, which is why rooms go early.

Questions people actually ask

Is September better than October?

September is better for high roads and swimming in green. October is better for chinars and saffron. If you must have both, you will get a bit of each at the join, and not the best of either.

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